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As a savory blending
of big-city bustle and African ease, Ghana's seaside capital is second
to none on the continent. At once sprawling and accessible,
rambunctious yet friendly, it's a city run by native Ghanaians, and
their pride in their product shows. Best of all, even as popular as
Accra's become in recent years, you still won't trip over Westerners
at every third step. The best introduction to the city is a good
browse in one of its main hawking grounds. Right at the heart of
central Accra, the Makola Market brims with glass bead and
batik sellers, while Kaneshie Market on the western side of the
city is the one to hit for mouthwatering foods and spices. James
Town, on a short peninsula south-west of the centre, is a handsome
if dilapidated neighbourhood that's also worth a wander.
A huge military
parade ground backed by the sea and capable of holding 30,000 people,
Independence Square is to Accra what Red Square is to Moscow,
minus any building of note. The square is just east of central Accra;
while you practice your goose-stepping, notice Osu Castle -
Accra's most historic structure - in the distance. Disappointingly,
it's now the seat of government and off-limits to visitors. The
Arts Centre, between the city centre and Independence Square, is
where artisans gather to sell their wares and entertainers come to
take advantage of the crowds. Count on catching some type of dancing,
singing, jamming or traditional theatre performance. The Arts Centre
is also the best craft market in the country.
Accra is famous
throughout West Africa for its vibrant nightlife, especially its
dance clubs, which centre around Nkrumah Circle. Rasta togs and
dreadlocks usually mark the entrance to the hippest spots. Accra's
beaches are another big draw, but the best ones are all a few
kilometres outside of town. Coco Beach, east in Nungua, is accessible
by tro-tro, but the nicest ones to the west all require private
transport. Accra has some well established Internet cafes although
they can be a little slow. New spots to surf, with faster connection
times, are springing up all the time.
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